Am I remembering it right?
Did VW say 345ft-lbs?
Am I thinking of the flywheel's gland nut? LOL

> On 28/04/13 11:19, KWW wrote:
>> But the whole point of Ft-lbs of torque is the force that is
>> applied, and actually at 3 ft it should have been 495 ft lbs
>> without bouncing if he actually measured 3 ft out.

x2 and couldn't agree more.

>> ...at least in theory it should have been right...

And might have been too ...but that's what VW's wants with new parts
and everything else when everything's "just right".

It "should" work.

"in theory, theory and practice are the same, in practice they aren't"
-somebody's sig file on a newsgroup from the mid 90's

"get it as tight as you can, then tighten it a little bit more "
-Gary Sandve SPRR mechanic and dune buggy -nut!-

It worked for me and like I said, seen VW's ~345ft-lbs not work. :/

No kidding.

Tighten it like you mean business and quit fartin' around. LOL

Ok?

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OP, so, the nut's right where it's "supposed" to be and the wheel
won't fall-off but your splines are stripped nekid. Measure out
~345ft-lbs if you want to because VW said to, it's not a safety
issue.

How much power you got?
About stock?
More?

tricky > wrote:
> Is there not a split pin (cotta?) that stops it coming loose ?

Yeah there's supposed to be a large "cotter pin" keeping the nut
from falling all the way off. But that's all it's for.

The nut's supposed to keep itself and everything else tight.

BTDT on railroad switch points and switch machines.

I'm a retired dumb railroader.

Retired Signalape so...
Ex-ex-spurt ditch digger with pick, shovel and digging bar. xD

Was also a signal maintainer so...
"I forgot more about pouring water than you'll ever know! :/"

^^That's my only real brag I got. xD

---------------------

One thing I fiNgured out about switch point nuts and bolts was that
washers and split ring "lock" washers etc made the situation -worse-!

I took everything off the bolt I could get away with taking off.
Then double nutted it with a -real- wrench then put in the cotter
pin. xD Before that I was replacing them about every six months and
after that they'd last the life of the switch points, about nine
years on the main line near Bowie AZ.


Company issued a jillion 16" and up "Cresent" wrenches and they are
crap. Cheater pipe don't help either. Guys would get the nut as
tight as they could with their 18" Cresent/Diamond/Proto adjustable
wrench then I'd tighten it a whole bunch more with a double boxed
end wrench without a cheater pipe on it -simply- because my wrenchs'
jaws weren't springing open. Don't believe me, test it for yourself.

Still got my favorite wrench a Cornwell offset boxed-end 1+1/8" on
one end and 1+1/4" on the other. It's an odd-ball that way.
Only used up to 1+3/4" on switch points etc.

Breaker bars and sockets (even 3/4" ones) are springy suckers! :/

I believe that's the real problem, the OP never really got what he
thought did.

Alvin in AZ
ps- Double nut your balls out there...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/doublenut.jpg