How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack
 

On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 5:23:08 PM UTC-6, Comboverfish wrote:
> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>
> Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>
> Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> experiences.
>
> The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> hardly be any stroke left.
>
> Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> it to work any other way):
>
> 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>
> 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> are designed to interchange easily).
>
> 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> enough oil. Slower is better here.
>
> 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>
> 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> becomes less than 100% effective.
>
> 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> 1/2 hour at worst.
>
> I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> me. HTH.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO

Here's an idea! whatever you do, DO NOT follow these instructions. I did and when the arm wouldn't go down all the way, I pushed a bit, not that hard. The REAL oil fill plug blew out and sprayed me with fluid. I ruined a pair of Carhartt shorts and a Carhartt T shirt.
AS another poster said, use the rubber plug.

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack
 

On Sunday, December 20, 2015 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-8, wrote:
> On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 6:23:08 PM UTC-5, Comboverfish wrote:
> > Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> > quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> > cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> > offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> > of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> > noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> > seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> > this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
> >
> > Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> > http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
> >
> > Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> > this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> > experiences.
> >
> > The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> > 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> > decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> > hardly be any stroke left.
> >
> > Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> > it to work any other way):
> >
> > 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> > This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> > service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> > close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> > Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> > apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> > absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> > unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> > completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> > slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> > plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> > spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> > turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
> >
> > 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> > ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> > oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> > through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> > keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> > avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> > since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> > are designed to interchange easily).
> >
> > 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> > As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> > you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> > enough oil. Slower is better here.
> >
> > 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> > further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> > hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> > temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
> >
> > 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> > weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> > pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> > engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> > becomes less than 100% effective.
> >
> > 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> > it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> > and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> > the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> > steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> > all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> > I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> > would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> > 1/2 hour at worst.
> >
> > I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> > plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> > me. HTH.
> >
> > Toyota MDT in MO
>
> Or you can just pop the rubber plug at the top of the cylinder (visible with the magnetic tray removed), and add oil. I do it al the time until I rebuild it with new seals.

I used this (rubber plud( method and it worked great. I was back up and running in 5 minutes.

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack
 

On Friday, December 20, 2019 at 6:53:03 PM UTC-8, wrote:
> On Sunday, December 20, 2015 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-8, wrote:
> > On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 6:23:08 PM UTC-5, Comboverfish wrote:
> > > Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> > > quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> > > cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> > > offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> > > of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> > > noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> > > seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> > > this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
> > >
> > > Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> > > http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
> > >
> > > Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> > > this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> > > experiences.
> > >
> > > The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> > > 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> > > decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> > > hardly be any stroke left.
> > >
> > > Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> > > it to work any other way):
> > >
> > > 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> > > This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> > > service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> > > close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> > > Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> > > apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> > > absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> > > unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> > > completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> > > slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> > > plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> > > spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> > > turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
> > >
> > > 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> > > ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> > > oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> > > through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> > > keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> > > avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> > > since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> > > are designed to interchange easily).
> > >
> > > 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> > > As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> > > you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> > > enough oil. Slower is better here.
> > >
> > > 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> > > further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> > > hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> > > temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
> > >
> > > 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> > > weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> > > pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> > > engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> > > becomes less than 100% effective.
> > >
> > > 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> > > it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> > > and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> > > the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> > > steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> > > all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> > > I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> > > would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> > > 1/2 hour at worst.
> > >
> > > I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> > > plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> > > me. HTH.
> > >
> > > Toyota MDT in MO
> >
> > Or you can just pop the rubber plug at the top of the cylinder (visible with the magnetic tray removed), and add oil. I do it al the time until I rebuild it with new seals.
>
> I used this (rubber plug) method and it worked great. I was back up and running in 5 minutes.

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack
 

where can IBUY THE RUBBER PLUG FOR MY G735 JACK BY MICHELIN.....I LIVE IN HENDERSON NEVADA. THANKS FOR INFO. ………..EDDIE

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