Curiouser and curiouser
 

Jeez, its quite!. After very much longer than I care to admit I twigged that
the cause of my T3 being reluctant to start when hot may have nothing to do
with carburation.
Taking the other approach I decided to look at ignition electrics.
Ignition is fed by a relay under back seat energised by original feed from
ignition switch.
Measured voltage at the battery with ignition on, points closed, no starter
and its 12.5 volts. Measured voltage at "+" of ignition coil with same
conditions and its 10.5 volts!. Two volts dropped across ~ 2 meters of
cable, an in line fuse, relay contacts and various crimp connectors.
Confirmed it with a meter from battery to coil positive. =2 volts drop.
With the starter on I,d be looking at another 2 volt drop giving ~8 volts
to ignition making starting suspect .
Soldered all crimp connections, the two volt drop went down to 0.5 volts,
car starts fine , hot ot cold.
All crimp connectors were industrial quality, the correct size, the
crimps made by decent crimpers, cable clean . I,ve been in electronics for
45 years and on appearances I would have said it looked perfect.
You,d think at 64 y.o you would have heard most things but obviously not!.
John

Curiouser and curiouser
 

When you soldered the connections did you first remove and clean them or
did you figure that the solder would "clean up" the connection?
KWW
On 7/5/2012 3:26 AM, John wrote:
> Jeez, its quite!. After very much longer than I care to admit I twigged that
> the cause of my T3 being reluctant to start when hot may have nothing to do
> with carburation.
> Taking the other approach I decided to look at ignition electrics.
> Ignition is fed by a relay under back seat energised by original feed from
> ignition switch.
> Measured voltage at the battery with ignition on, points closed, no starter
> and its 12.5 volts. Measured voltage at "+" of ignition coil with same
> conditions and its 10.5 volts!. Two volts dropped across ~ 2 meters of
> cable, an in line fuse, relay contacts and various crimp connectors.
> Confirmed it with a meter from battery to coil positive. =2 volts drop.
> With the starter on I,d be looking at another 2 volt drop giving ~8 volts
> to ignition making starting suspect .
> Soldered all crimp connections, the two volt drop went down to 0.5 volts,
> car starts fine , hot ot cold.
> All crimp connectors were industrial quality, the correct size, the
> crimps made by decent crimpers, cable clean . I,ve been in electronics for
> 45 years and on appearances I would have said it looked perfect.
> You,d think at 64 y.o you would have heard most things but obviously not!.
> John
>
>



--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---

Curiouser and curiouser
 

Both. With some crimped ones I used phosphoric acid as a flux and it
soldered beautifully with solder flowing into crimped area. On another
joint there was a male/female "bullet" connector. I removed this and just
soldered the wires together plus some heatshrink over joint.
If you can get straight phosphoric acid now it makes s superb soldering
flux. I,ve soldered straight dirty steel wires together as if it was new
copper. Just make sure its washed off later.I use it to make my own rust
remover. About a 3 part water,1 part acid.



"KWW" > wrote in message
...
> When you soldered the connections did you first remove and clean them or
> did you figure that the solder would "clean up" the connection?
> KWW
> On 7/5/2012 3:26 AM, John wrote:
>> Jeez, its quite!. After very much longer than I care to admit I twigged
>> that
>> the cause of my T3 being reluctant to start when hot may have nothing to
>> do
>> with carburation.
>> Taking the other approach I decided to look at ignition electrics.
>> Ignition is fed by a relay under back seat energised by original feed
>> from
>> ignition switch.
>> Measured voltage at the battery with ignition on, points closed, no
>> starter
>> and its 12.5 volts. Measured voltage at "+" of ignition coil with same
>> conditions and its 10.5 volts!. Two volts dropped across ~ 2 meters of
>> cable, an in line fuse, relay contacts and various crimp connectors.
>> Confirmed it with a meter from battery to coil positive. =2 volts drop.
>> With the starter on I,d be looking at another 2 volt drop giving ~8
>> volts
>> to ignition making starting suspect .
>> Soldered all crimp connections, the two volt drop went down to 0.5
>> volts,
>> car starts fine , hot ot cold.
>> All crimp connectors were industrial quality, the correct size, the
>> crimps made by decent crimpers, cable clean . I,ve been in electronics
>> for
>> 45 years and on appearances I would have said it looked perfect.
>> You,d think at 64 y.o you would have heard most things but obviously
>> not!.
>> John
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to
> ---

Curiouser and curiouser
 

Thanks for sharing.

I have started a 6V beetle with a 9V little battery in a pinch, hooked
it directly to the ignition coil. Started right up even when the starter
turned real slow :D Turns out hard starting is more due to loss of spark
or too weak spark, when the starter draws all the available power.

As for phosphoric acid, it's great for rust treatment on ferrous metals
too. Can be used as primer, it turns rust black almost on contact. One
brand name/product designed for just rust treatment is called OSPHO, I
used it a lot when I worked on classic Porsches.

You can get pretty much the same stuff at Lowes or Home Depot (Forgot
which, I think HD) made by JASCO. It's in the paint section.
I bought a small pump spray bottle to apply an even mist coat. The acid
has not damaged the bottle in over 1 year of sitting in it.

Jan


On 7/5/2012 8:12 PM, John wrote:
> Both. With some crimped ones I used phosphoric acid as a flux and it
> soldered beautifully with solder flowing into crimped area. On another
> joint there was a male/female "bullet" connector. I removed this and just
> soldered the wires together plus some heatshrink over joint.
> If you can get straight phosphoric acid now it makes s superb soldering
> flux. I,ve soldered straight dirty steel wires together as if it was new
> copper. Just make sure its washed off later.I use it to make my own rust
> remover. About a 3 part water,1 part acid.
>
>
>
> > wrote in message
> ...
>> When you soldered the connections did you first remove and clean them or
>> did you figure that the solder would "clean up" the connection?
>> KWW
>> On 7/5/2012 3:26 AM, John wrote:
>>> Jeez, its quite!. After very much longer than I care to admit I twigged
>>> that
>>> the cause of my T3 being reluctant to start when hot may have nothing to
>>> do
>>> with carburation.
>>> Taking the other approach I decided to look at ignition electrics.
>>> Ignition is fed by a relay under back seat energised by original feed
>>> from
>>> ignition switch.
>>> Measured voltage at the battery with ignition on, points closed, no
>>> starter
>>> and its 12.5 volts. Measured voltage at "+" of ignition coil with same
>>> conditions and its 10.5 volts!. Two volts dropped across ~ 2 meters of
>>> cable, an in line fuse, relay contacts and various crimp connectors.
>>> Confirmed it with a meter from battery to coil positive. =2 volts drop.
>>> With the starter on I,d be looking at another 2 volt drop giving ~8
>>> volts
>>> to ignition making starting suspect .
>>> Soldered all crimp connections, the two volt drop went down to 0.5
>>> volts,
>>> car starts fine , hot ot cold.
>>> All crimp connectors were industrial quality, the correct size, the
>>> crimps made by decent crimpers, cable clean . I,ve been in electronics
>>> for
>>> 45 years and on appearances I would have said it looked perfect.
>>> You,d think at 64 y.o you would have heard most things but obviously
>>> not!.
>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to
>> ---
>
>

Curiouser and curiouser
 

The rustkillers you mention are the ones I got the "recipe" from. I bought 5
litres of straight acid I think for about $20 and mixed 1:3 gives me 20
litres. Less the little bottles I give to mates for flux.
Your comments re starting are spot on. There is an old saying in
electronics, " check your power supply first".
Guess it refers to old VW,s as well!

"Jan Andersson" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for sharing.
>
> I have started a 6V beetle with a 9V little battery in a pinch, hooked it
> directly to the ignition coil. Started right up even when the starter
> turned real slow :D Turns out hard starting is more due to loss of spark
> or too weak spark, when the starter draws all the available power.
>
> As for phosphoric acid, it's great for rust treatment on ferrous metals
> too. Can be used as primer, it turns rust black almost on contact. One
> brand name/product designed for just rust treatment is called OSPHO, I
> used it a lot when I worked on classic Porsches.
>
> You can get pretty much the same stuff at Lowes or Home Depot (Forgot
> which, I think HD) made by JASCO. It's in the paint section.
> I bought a small pump spray bottle to apply an even mist coat. The acid
> has not damaged the bottle in over 1 year of sitting in it.
>
> Jan
>
>
> On 7/5/2012 8:12 PM, John wrote:
>> Both. With some crimped ones I used phosphoric acid as a flux and it
>> soldered beautifully with solder flowing into crimped area. On another
>> joint there was a male/female "bullet" connector. I removed this and just
>> soldered the wires together plus some heatshrink over joint.
>> If you can get straight phosphoric acid now it makes s superb soldering
>> flux. I,ve soldered straight dirty steel wires together as if it was new
>> copper. Just make sure its washed off later.I use it to make my own rust
>> remover. About a 3 part water,1 part acid.
>>
>>
>>
>> > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> When you soldered the connections did you first remove and clean them or
>>> did you figure that the solder would "clean up" the connection?
>>> KWW
>>> On 7/5/2012 3:26 AM, John wrote:
>>>> Jeez, its quite!. After very much longer than I care to admit I twigged
>>>> that
>>>> the cause of my T3 being reluctant to start when hot may have nothing
>>>> to
>>>> do
>>>> with carburation.
>>>> Taking the other approach I decided to look at ignition electrics.
>>>> Ignition is fed by a relay under back seat energised by original feed
>>>> from
>>>> ignition switch.
>>>> Measured voltage at the battery with ignition on, points closed, no
>>>> starter
>>>> and its 12.5 volts. Measured voltage at "+" of ignition coil with same
>>>> conditions and its 10.5 volts!. Two volts dropped across ~ 2 meters of
>>>> cable, an in line fuse, relay contacts and various crimp connectors.
>>>> Confirmed it with a meter from battery to coil positive. =2 volts drop.
>>>> With the starter on I,d be looking at another 2 volt drop giving ~8
>>>> volts
>>>> to ignition making starting suspect .
>>>> Soldered all crimp connections, the two volt drop went down to 0.5
>>>> volts,
>>>> car starts fine , hot ot cold.
>>>> All crimp connectors were industrial quality, the correct size,
>>>> the
>>>> crimps made by decent crimpers, cable clean . I,ve been in electronics
>>>> for
>>>> 45 years and on appearances I would have said it looked perfect.
>>>> You,d think at 64 y.o you would have heard most things but obviously
>>>> not!.
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to
>>> ---
>>
>>
>