Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

Whenever I am not using my van, I take the battery out and I put it in
my house.(too many of those ''spread the wealth'' people around here) I
don't tighten the battery clamps, I twist ''tighten'' them on there.I
have an old battery cable wire tied under the hood.When I remove my
battery, I let that battery cable dangle out from under the hood.That
makes it look like/seem like there is no battery in my van.Sometimes, I
have to use a round wire brush to clean up the battery cables clamps and
the battery terminals.I might try using some Vaseline and see if that
helps.
cuhulin

Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

"Tegger" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Pretty much anything that keeps oxygen away from the terminals keeps
> corrosion away.
>
> You could use spray white grease, Crisco, Cosmoline, bear fat,
> clarified butter, just about anything greasy.
> --
> Tegger
>

Give the man a trophy.. This is the best answer.

Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

"Don Stauffer" > wrote in message
news:4a0c1eec$0$87079
>
> While the vasoline MAY be squeezed out from within the connection, the
> normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made.

Actually, it plays little part in the equation. The contact will be made
through the
petroleum jelly by clean metal contact. Corrosive (oxidative) films can be
far
more efficient insulators than this layer of "grease".

That is one reason that capacitors can be made with HUGE capacitance values.

Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

On Thu, 14 May 2009 23:36:07 +0000, Tegger wrote:

> "Ulysses" > wrote in
> :
>
>>
>> "Don Stauffer" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> jim evans wrote:
>>> > For years I've heard the advice to coat battery posts & terminals
>>> > with Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because
>>> > it seems like the grease would act like an insulator and impede
>>> > electrical conduction between the posts and terminals.
>>> >
>>> > Do others who use it have any problems with conduction? If not,
>>> > why do you think that's so?
>>>
>>>
>>> While the vasoline MAY be squeezed out from within the connection,
>>> the normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made. That is,
>>> with the cable connected to the battery post, paint the vasoline
>>> around the connector, on all exposed lead and other metal.
>>
>> While I basically agree with this statement I always put it on before
>> connecting the cable
>
>
>
> I do this too. But then my cable connectors are aluminum, and have little
> barbs that bite into the battery post when they're tightened. Old-style
> lead clamps that are smooth on the inside may not provide enough "bite" to
> get through the grease film.
>
> However, since the posts are tapered, it's possible the bottom of the lead
> clamp is wedged on firmly enough to make proper contact in spite of the
> grease.
>
>
>
>
>> because I have lots of problems with corrosion
>
>
>
> Then your post-to-case seal is broken. This is usually due to some sort of
> mishandling or overtightening.

Like beating on it to make the car start?

> Treat your battery with kindness and care, and ye shalt remain corrosion-
> free, forevermore.

Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

Grease is good but it has a chances to reduce the charging power.whereas, Vaseline it won't it allows proper power to charge quickly.

Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

On Thursday, May 14, 2009 at 3:21:30 PM UTC-10, Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク wrote:
> On Thu, 14 May 2009 23:36:07 +0000, Tegger wrote:
>
> > "Ulysses" > wrote in
> > :
> >
> >>
> >> "Don Stauffer" > wrote in message
> >> ...
> >>> jim evans wrote:
> >>> > For years I've heard the advice to coat battery posts & terminals
> >>> > with Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because
> >>> > it seems like the grease would act like an insulator and impede
> >>> > electrical conduction between the posts and terminals.
> >>> >
> >>> > Do others who use it have any problems with conduction? If not,
> >>> > why do you think that's so?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> While the vasoline MAY be squeezed out from within the connection,
> >>> the normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made. That is,
> >>> with the cable connected to the battery post, paint the vasoline
> >>> around the connector, on all exposed lead and other metal.
> >>
> >> While I basically agree with this statement I always put it on before
> >> connecting the cable
> >
> >
> >
> > I do this too. But then my cable connectors are aluminum, and have little
> > barbs that bite into the battery post when they're tightened. Old-style
> > lead clamps that are smooth on the inside may not provide enough "bite" to
> > get through the grease film.
> >
> > However, since the posts are tapered, it's possible the bottom of the lead
> > clamp is wedged on firmly enough to make proper contact in spite of the
> > grease.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> because I have lots of problems with corrosion
> >
> >
> >
> > Then your post-to-case seal is broken. This is usually due to some sort of
> > mishandling or overtightening.
>
> Like beating on it to make the car start?
>
> > Treat your battery with kindness and care, and ye shalt remain corrosion-
> > free, forevermore.

Beating on a battery terminal can allow a car to start - if the problem is a poor terminal connection. I used to start my Ford Taurus by opening up the hood and whacking on the box that housed the relays. They were all in a single sealed box that didn't allow access to the relays. It one of the greatest idea Ford ever came up with! The fuel pump relay was kind of flakey. Sometimes you just got to kick car ass.

Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

In article >,
> wrote:
>Grease is good but it has a chances to reduce the charging power.whereas, Vaseline it won't it allows proper power to charge quickly.

So what is "grease" that makes it different than "vaseline?"
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

On Sunday, June 18, 2017 at 1:42:10 PM UTC-10, Scott Dorsey wrote:
> In article >,
> > wrote:
> >Grease is good but it has a chances to reduce the charging power.whereas, Vaseline it won't it allows proper power to charge quickly.
>
> So what is "grease" that makes it different than "vaseline?"
> --scott
>
> --
> "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

My guess is that any kind of grease would work on a battery terminal - even dielectric grease. The terminals usually get flakey because of corrosion between the contact areas. Anything that seals off those areas to air is a good thing. The most important thing is that the grease does not melt at the working temperatures.

Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
 

In rec.autos.tech, on Sun, 18 Jun 2017 16:34:34 -0700 (PDT), dsi1
> wrote:

>On Thursday, May 14, 2009 at 3:21:30 PM UTC-10, Hachiroku ???? wrote:
>> On Thu, 14 May 2009 23:36:07 +0000, Tegger wrote:
>>
>> > "Ulysses" > wrote in
>> > :
>> >
>> >>
>> >> "Don Stauffer" > wrote in message
>> >> ...
>> >>> jim evans wrote:
>> >>> > For years I've heard the advice to coat battery posts & terminals
>> >>> > with Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because
>> >>> > it seems like the grease would act like an insulator and impede
>> >>> > electrical conduction between the posts and terminals.
>> >>> >
>> >>> > Do others who use it have any problems with conduction? If not,
>> >>> > why do you think that's so?

You need grease that conducts electricity. I forget the 3-syllable
word, but they sell little envelopes of it at autoparts store, just for
electrical things.

I've never used anything on my battery posts and in 55 years I've never
had corrosion. But I do use the red and green felt washers sold for
batteries, they are great and afaict last for years.

But once I had a switch or something filled with grease at the factory,
and if I rebuilt it, I replaced the grease with the stuff above.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> While the vasoline MAY be squeezed out from within the connection,
>> >>> the normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made. That is,
>> >>> with the cable connected to the battery post, paint the vasoline
>> >>> around the connector, on all exposed lead and other metal.

I would think vaseline would be wet and runny when the weather is hot.
>> >>
>> >> While I basically agree with this statement I always put it on before
>> >> connecting the cable
>> >
>> > I do this too. But then my cable connectors are aluminum, and have little
>> > barbs that bite into the battery post when they're tightened. Old-style
>> > lead clamps that are smooth on the inside may not provide enough "bite" to
>> > get through the grease film.
>> >
>> > However, since the posts are tapered, it's possible the bottom of the lead
>> > clamp is wedged on firmly enough to make proper contact in spite of the
>> > grease.
>>
>> >> because I have lots of problems with corrosion
>> >
>> > Then your post-to-case seal is broken. This is usually due to some sort of
>> > mishandling or overtightening.
>>
>> Like beating on it to make the car start?
>>
>> > Treat your battery with kindness and care, and ye shalt remain corrosion-
>> > free, forevermore.
>
>Beating on a battery terminal can allow a car to start - if the problem is a poor terminal connection. I used to start my Ford Taurus by opening up the hood and whacking on the box that housed the relays. They were all in a single sealed box that didn't allow access to the relays. It one of the greatest idea Ford ever came up with! The fuel pump relay was kind of flakey. Sometimes you just got to kick car ass.

I had a '65 pontiac, almost new, and every time the lights were left on,
the car wouldn't start until I reached under and pulled the cable at the
starter motor a few degrees around the stud it was attached to. I got a
buzzer that buzzed if the lights were left on and that stopped that
problem.

And I had a convetible top motor for which I had to open the trunk and
whack the motor with a wrench. As time went on it sometimes took 3 or
more whacks, but once it started runnign it always ran fine until the
top was up or down as the case may be. This went on for almost 2 years
until I had to replace the brushes in the motor, but the brushes I
bought, though the right size, had copper braid connectors that were
much smaller than the original (they were meant for a smaller motor) so
I wadded up a little piece of aluminum foil and put it between the brush
housing and the spring behind each brush. That worked fine for years.