Bolt Removal Problems
 

Update:
Unfastening the bolt connecting the rear lower control arm and trailing arm was
as ugly as others in the archives reported. I never actually got it free from
the bushing or its nut.

I never tried a torch, but that would be my next suggestion.

I eventually drilled and cut (by hand) the outside-most control arm
bushing/bolt. Then I ground down the female bolt receptacle (it's not actually a
nut, unfortunately, or I would have snapped it off, the way I did with the strut
fork bolt) welded to the trailing arm. I used a cheap-o electric hand drill and
grinding stone attachment. Grinding it down was no fun but at least I could see
some kind of steady progress. Cobalt drill bits are essential but still very,
very slow, even with the best cutting oil.

I installed the "new" (= 8k miles used) control arm last night, attaching it
with a separate nut at the trailing arm, as I think Eric and/or others
suggested. The new strut and control arm did not fix the tilt, but I wasn't
expecting it too.

The ride seems a bit smoother, but I may have talked myself into this.

I took apart the old strut in my suspension course today, borrowing the school's
spring compressor. The shock absorber seemed in excellent shape at 157k miles
old. The spring is a tougher call.

I reckon I spent around $35 just on cutting tools for this job. About half the
tools are broken or now severely worn. I'm worn, too! :-)

I am contemplating doing the other side but not for another week or so.
Meanwhile, the other side's bolts get sprayed with PB Blaster regularly. Not
that I have much hope this will help.

Moral of the story: The classic, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?

I dunno. I learned a lot: -)

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 22:28:53 GMT, "Caroline"
> wrote:

> I used a cheap-o electric hand drill and
>grinding stone attachment. Grinding it down was no fun

I bet! Is there any chance you can get ahold of an air tool?
A die grinder with a 3" abrasive cutoff wheel is the weapon of choice.
Electric drills just don't turn fast enough.

"John Ings" > wrote
> On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 22:28:53 GMT, "Caroline"
> > wrote:
>
> > I used a cheap-o electric hand drill and
> >grinding stone attachment. Grinding it down was no fun
>
> I bet! Is there any chance you can get ahold of an air tool?
> A die grinder with a 3" abrasive cutoff wheel is the weapon of choice.
> Electric drills just don't turn fast enough.

Hi John, thanks for the suggestion. I'm a little overbudget on "tool toys" right
now, but I'll make some inquiries of classmates in my auto course and ponder it
for a few weeks before I go seriously after the other rear shock assembly, if I
go after it. I also want to keep an eye on my "re-design" of the one rear
trailing arm/control arm linkage for awhile.

At least I am now the proud owner of a 115 psi, 8 gallon reservoir, "uses oil"
air compressor (which may or may not do the trick for this tool you suggest).

On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 05:25:35 GMT, "Caroline"
> wrote:

>At least I am now the proud owner of a 115 psi, 8 gallon reservoir, "uses oil"
>air compressor (which may or may not do the trick for this tool you suggest).

Then get a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. They're relatively cheap
as air tools go. Get one without a guard or with a removable guard.
They are more dangerous to use, but often you just can't get the ones
with a guard into confined spaces.

Small compressors sometimes don't pack enough oomph for big air tools
like 3/4" impact wrenches, but they are plenty good enough for things
like a die grinder, air chisels, air ratchets etc. I worked on cars
for a long time before I discovered air tools, and when I did wished I
had found out about them earlier.