Ignition Switch
 

Had to replace the Ignition Sw on my T3 a few years back. Had
intermittent problems since then I was never able to isolate and certainly
didnt suspect the new switch. By the time I started looking the symptom had
vanished only to manifest somewhere else.. After trying to start her after a
week off it was definitely no start. Went eventually to replace the Ig Sw
again after tracing it backwards with one I had overhauled and all was
revealed. The Brazilian(?), Mexican(?) replacement had six wires hanging
off the back of switch and 3 of these were "dry jointed". The wire went
through the lug and had a ball of solder on the end of wire. No solder
securing the joint. Replaced it, starts/runs like a clock now.
Might pay to check if you ever need to replace an Ig Sw to check the solder
joints of the leads to its rear of switch. On mine the solder had simply
never adhered. Bit of a wriggle installing it and bingo, intermittents.
Incidentally, the difference in quality of design and material of an OEM
metal type and a generic plastic replacement is huge. If you can get a metal
one , do it. You can overhaul them, just carefully unbend the 3 crimps
securing the two halves. Pull apart noting position of bits. Clean contacts,
lubricate and reassemble.
John

Ignition Switch
 

Thanks for that tip John! ;-)
I have seen some aftermarket ign switches last less than 1 week in the
watercooled VWs. :-(
--
later,
(One out of many daves)

"John" > wrote in message
...
> Had to replace the Ignition Sw on my T3 a few years back. Had
> intermittent problems since then I was never able to isolate and certainly
> didnt suspect the new switch. By the time I started looking the symptom
> had vanished only to manifest somewhere else.. After trying to start her
> after a week off it was definitely no start. Went eventually to replace
> the Ig Sw again after tracing it backwards with one I had overhauled and
> all was revealed. The Brazilian(?), Mexican(?) replacement had six wires
> hanging off the back of switch and 3 of these were "dry jointed". The wire
> went through the lug and had a ball of solder on the end of wire. No
> solder securing the joint. Replaced it, starts/runs like a clock now.
> Might pay to check if you ever need to replace an Ig Sw to check the
> solder joints of the leads to its rear of switch. On mine the solder had
> simply never adhered. Bit of a wriggle installing it and bingo,
> intermittents.
> Incidentally, the difference in quality of design and material of an OEM
> metal type and a generic plastic replacement is huge. If you can get a
> metal one , do it. You can overhaul them, just carefully unbend the 3
> crimps securing the two halves. Pull apart noting position of bits. Clean
> contacts, lubricate and reassemble.
> John