Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Got a major problem here kindof i think. Got a 1991 Audi 100 with a 5
cylinder 2.3 litre fuel injected engine. you can crank it for ages and it will fire once or twice or sometimes not fire at all and just keep cranking. This only happens when the engine (water) is cold. If I spray ether into the intake manifold it fires continually until I stop spraying but still will not start. I have removed two of the fuel lines going to the injectors and there is no fuel pumping up them but there is on the cold start fuel line. Im not sure if thats normal or not. but if i push up the lever thingy behind the air filter then fuel pumps very slowly up all the injector fuel lines. help help help!!!! |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
My initial idea is to say the fuel injection relay might not be working the
contacts wear out regularly (100k) and often don't give enough power to the pump, if it is working full on you should hear the pump kick in when you turn the ignition on for a couple of seconds before you start it. I had a similar problem on 100 CD similar engine set up 2226cc one. The relays are about £20 from german and swedish if I remember rightly, however it is possible to check this by actually bypassing this relay (not adviseable normally but just for test purposes, I ran my car on a wired switch for about two weeks until I managed to get a new one) as it's a safety feature to kill the pump once the engine is not "firing" rev check. You can use a suitable thick bit of wire between the sockets for the terminals once you work out after taking out the relay which ones are required to hard wire together. With the ignition on only you will hear the pump in the tank working. If it fires with this you need a new relay. IS the spray from the cold start very strong? The cold start is on a relay that bypasses the fuel distibutor if I'm right and will drain any pressure in it, or the fuel valve in the regulator is sticking. I assume you have not played with the mixture setting or dropped anything into the plate that regulates the fuel air mixture etc. Give me a mail back if that doesn't help. PAul "sealdogfish" > wrote in message oups.com... > Got a major problem here kindof i think. Got a 1991 Audi 100 with a 5 > cylinder 2.3 litre fuel injected engine. > you can crank it for ages and it will fire once or twice or sometimes > not fire at all and just keep cranking. This only happens when the > engine (water) is cold. If I spray ether into the intake manifold it > fires continually until I stop spraying but still will not start. I > have removed two of the fuel lines going to the injectors and there is > no fuel pumping up them but there is on the cold start fuel line. Im > not sure if thats normal or not. but if i push up the lever thingy > behind the air filter then fuel pumps very slowly up all the injector > fuel lines. help help help!!!! > |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
I will try bypassing the relay but when i turn the key to on I can hear
the fuel pump going and fuel is definately pumping, though im not sure how strongly. When cold starting are the 5 injectors supposed to be working or is it just the cold start injector that goes until it starts up properly? also can i just take out the cold start injector and turn it on and see if it sprays? |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few more days at least. |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few more days at least. |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Okay cheap fix,
go and buy a new rotor arm for the distributor and if that fixes the problem contact bosch uk and get a new distributor. The shaft bearings wear out and the rotor arm contacts the contacts and heats up so much it blows the resistor as it cools and warms it contacts. If this is happening it is usually shown up as a crack in the dark brown resin they cover the resistor with. Have a look at it. You should also be able to rock the rotor shaft left to right if it is warn. Does this make sense? Paul "sealdogfish" > wrote in message oups.com... > I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so > and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and > restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few > more days at least. > |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Makes sense but the engine is sparking perfectly without fail, unless
the distributor tells the injectors when to fire? but when its cranking there is no fuel going up the injector lines from what i can tell, no fuel coming out of the metal round thing that all the fuel lines bolt into. (except for the cold start) |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Just thought of something else. Are all of the wires connected especially
the idle valve. They could be corroded check them just pulling them off and refitting a couple of times might help. The rotor arm actually usually actually works the other way it will start when cold but not hot, however I have had similar problems, I still think it might be the fuel relay. Don't forget that once it gets going it has to keep up the pressure and that takes more power to do so, so still try the bypass that I suggested mine also had the cold start issue. Just tapping the relay sometimes was enough during cranking to get it to start. If this has been going on a while it is likely to have carbon deposits etc. You could always take it out and take off the cover and have a look inside and see for yourself. By the way if it is make sure you buy the 5 cyl relaynot the 4 cylinder I think there is an over rev cutout that will kill the engine at lower revs if you get the wrong one. PAul "sealdogfish" > wrote in message oups.com... > I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so > and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and > restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few > more days at least. > |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
I have a Haynes manual with test procedures etc if you would like me to scan
it and mail it to you if what I have suggested doesn't help Paul Take out the spaces in the email address to email me directly "pdpass" > wrote in message ... > Just thought of something else. Are all of the wires connected especially > the idle valve. They could be corroded check them just pulling them off and > refitting a couple of times might help. > > The rotor arm actually usually actually works the other way it will start > when cold but not hot, however I have had similar problems, I still think it > might be the fuel relay. Don't forget that once it gets going it has to keep > up the pressure and that takes more power to do so, so still try the bypass > that I suggested mine also had the cold start issue. Just tapping the relay > sometimes was enough during cranking to get it to start. If this has been > going on a while it is likely to have carbon deposits etc. You could always > take it out and take off the cover and have a look inside and see for > yourself. > > By the way if it is make sure you buy the 5 cyl relaynot the 4 cylinder I > think there is an over rev cutout that will kill the engine at lower revs if > you get the wrong one. > > > PAul > > > "sealdogfish" > wrote in message > oups.com... > > I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so > > and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and > > restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few > > more days at least. > > > > |
Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
manual though is not accessible tonight, its in the back of the garage
somewhere behind the car and I have to move the car to get at it and I've had a drink so it will remain there until tomorrow, I only have 2 inches either side of the car when I pull it out and I don't actually want to scratch it! Paul "pdpass" > wrote in message ... > I have a Haynes manual with test procedures etc if you would like me to scan > it and mail it to you if what I have suggested doesn't help > > Paul > > Take out the spaces in the email address to email me directly > "pdpass" > wrote in message > ... > > Just thought of something else. Are all of the wires connected especially > > the idle valve. They could be corroded check them just pulling them off > and > > refitting a couple of times might help. > > > > The rotor arm actually usually actually works the other way it will start > > when cold but not hot, however I have had similar problems, I still think > it > > might be the fuel relay. Don't forget that once it gets going it has to > keep > > up the pressure and that takes more power to do so, so still try the > bypass > > that I suggested mine also had the cold start issue. Just tapping the > relay > > sometimes was enough during cranking to get it to start. If this has been > > going on a while it is likely to have carbon deposits etc. You could > always > > take it out and take off the cover and have a look inside and see for > > yourself. > > > > By the way if it is make sure you buy the 5 cyl relaynot the 4 cylinder I > > think there is an over rev cutout that will kill the engine at lower revs > if > > you get the wrong one. > > > > > > PAul > > > > > > "sealdogfish" > wrote in message > > oups.com... > > > I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so > > > and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and > > > restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few > > > more days at least. > > > > > > > > > |
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