90 spirit won't run
"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message n.umich.edu... > On Tue, 7 Dec 2004, Wes Faul wrote: > > > > I think you have an electrical problem. Somehow, that injector isn't > > > being given the right signals. > > > I've checked the TPS, replaced the AIS, checked the Speed/Distance > > sensor. What other electrical sensors/relays, etc... do I need to check? > > The ASD relay shuts off the ignition, doesn't it? So it shouldn't be > > that. > > The ASD relay controls the ignition, yes, but also the fuel pump and also > the injection. It is the "master shutdown switch". > > > When depressurizing the fuel system, the chiltons > > Ooohboy. Chilton books will get you nowhere in a big hurry. You need a > factory book. They're not hard or expensive to get. > > > says to ground one terminal of the fuel injector, and touch the other > > terminal to the positive battery terminal. > > Good way to fry a fuel injector. That's what I figured. > > Has the throttle body itself or the fuel injector been swapped? Although > physically interchangeable, different-year versions of this same system > run at different pressures. Starting in '91 or '92, the system pressure > was increased to 39psi, and the later injectors aren't compatible with the > early lower-pressure system. I didn't replace either of them. I've had the car for about a month, and it ran fine until this. I figure it has to be something electrical, though. It was running fine when I parked it. Then, when I went to leave, it wouldn't start. > > Try this: Remove the battery negative cable from the battery and > leave it disconnected for two minutes, then reconnect it. Get in the car > and crank it, then check the codes and report what you find. I'm beginning > to suspect you'll see an 11. After I replaced the TPS, I unhooked the battery to reset the codes. Since then, I haven't had any codes except 12 and 55. Wes |
Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> >>says to ground one terminal of the fuel injector, and touch the other >>terminal to the positive battery terminal. > > > Good way to fry a fuel injector. > Or worse, fill a cylinder with fuel then fold a connecting rod when you start it up afterward. |
On Tue, 8 Dec 2004, Tim Kett wrote:
> > Try this: Remove the battery negative cable from the battery and leave > > it disconnected for two minutes, then reconnect it. Get in the car and > > crank it, then check the codes and report what you find. I'm beginning > > to suspect you'll see an 11. > Does removing the battery negative for 2 minuits reset the computer ? Naw, I just suggested it 'cause I get my jollies from making people do pointless stuff. |
Dan's suggestions have caused me to invest SO much additional work on
my own cars that I now take my car to the dealer for even the simplest things, like refilling the washer fluid bottle, checking oil level and tire air pressure. NOT!!!! ;-) Daniel J. Stern wrote: > Naw, I just suggested it 'cause I get my jollies from making people do > pointless stuff. |
Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> On Tue, 8 Dec 2004, Tim Kett wrote: > > >>>Try this: Remove the battery negative cable from the battery and leave >>>it disconnected for two minutes, then reconnect it. Get in the car and >>>crank it, then check the codes and report what you find. I'm beginning >>>to suspect you'll see an 11. > > >>Does removing the battery negative for 2 minuits reset the computer ? > > > Naw, I just suggested it 'cause I get my jollies from making people do > pointless stuff. Well, I get MY jollies from watching people refuse to take good advice, and then whine that the car is still broken :-p |
Ooohboy. Chilton books will get you nowhere in a big hurry. You need a
factory book. They're not hard or expensive to get. > says to ground one terminal of the fuel injector, and touch the other > terminal to the positive battery terminal. Good way to fry a fuel injector,,, AND ONCE AGAIN HE RUNS HIS MOUTH< ON PAGE 15 OF THE CHRYSLER PRINTED DRIVABILTY BOOK IT STATES T O GROUND THE WIRE AND CONNECT A JUMPER WIRE TO THE OTHER END instead of helping the OP to understand that the only way he's going to get his car working again is through systematic and proper diagnosis? IS THAT WHAT YOU CALL WHAT YOU ARE DOING, the book is right, but daniel wants to rewrite it "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message n.umich.edu... > On Tue, 7 Dec 2004, Wes Faul wrote: > > > > I think you have an electrical problem. Somehow, that injector isn't > > > being given the right signals. > > > I've checked the TPS, replaced the AIS, checked the Speed/Distance > > sensor. What other electrical sensors/relays, etc... do I need to check? > > The ASD relay shuts off the ignition, doesn't it? So it shouldn't be > > that. > > The ASD relay controls the ignition, yes, but also the fuel pump and also > the injection. It is the "master shutdown switch". > > > When depressurizing the fuel system, the chiltons > > Ooohboy. Chilton books will get you nowhere in a big hurry. You need a > factory book. They're not hard or expensive to get. > > > says to ground one terminal of the fuel injector, and touch the other > > terminal to the positive battery terminal. > > Good way to fry a fuel injector. > > Has the throttle body itself or the fuel injector been swapped? Although > physically interchangeable, different-year versions of this same system > run at different pressures. Starting in '91 or '92, the system pressure > was increased to 39psi, and the later injectors aren't compatible with the > early lower-pressure system. > > Try this: Remove the battery negative cable from the battery and > leave it disconnected for two minutes, then reconnect it. Get in the car > and crank it, then check the codes and report what you find. I'm beginning > to suspect you'll see an 11. |
You dont have a fault for distributor reference signal (No distributor
reference signal detected during cranking) You dont have a fault for Injector peak current (caused by high resistance in the control circuit) which is also the PCM test, You dont have a fault for injector control circuit ( engine controller does not sense injector switching on and off when a control is switched) so all those tests i would assumed pass, the only thing it does not test is if the pintel is opening, you would need a lab scope for that. but as our friend Dan C states, they did not have many problems with that injector, but then again the car is 14 yrs old, once again, if you supply fuel(starter fluid) and the engine runs and all other test passed especially the TPS sensor ( cause if will shut off fuel) and the speed sensor cause it will also cause a no start if bad, then i would have to say the injector is faulty, assuming all others passed, this is the last post i will make to this, i dont get into these games with people like daniel. there was also a recall out on the 2.5/2.2 for replacement of the injector, im not sure what yr it was , give me the serial number via my e mail address and i will check for you. it may have been 1988 im not sure "Wes Faul" > wrote in message ... > > "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message > n.umich.edu... > > On Tue, 7 Dec 2004, Wes Faul wrote: > > > > > > I think you have an electrical problem. Somehow, that injector isn't > > > > being given the right signals. > > > > > I've checked the TPS, replaced the AIS, checked the Speed/Distance > > > sensor. What other electrical sensors/relays, etc... do I need to check? > > > The ASD relay shuts off the ignition, doesn't it? So it shouldn't be > > > that. > > > > The ASD relay controls the ignition, yes, but also the fuel pump and also > > the injection. It is the "master shutdown switch". > > > > > When depressurizing the fuel system, the chiltons > > > > Ooohboy. Chilton books will get you nowhere in a big hurry. You need a > > factory book. They're not hard or expensive to get. > > > > > says to ground one terminal of the fuel injector, and touch the other > > > terminal to the positive battery terminal. > > > > Good way to fry a fuel injector. > > That's what I figured. > > > > Has the throttle body itself or the fuel injector been swapped? Although > > physically interchangeable, different-year versions of this same system > > run at different pressures. Starting in '91 or '92, the system pressure > > was increased to 39psi, and the later injectors aren't compatible with the > > early lower-pressure system. > > I didn't replace either of them. I've had the car for about a month, and it > ran fine until this. I figure it has to be something electrical, though. > It was running fine when I parked it. Then, when I went to leave, it > wouldn't start. > > > > > Try this: Remove the battery negative cable from the battery and > > leave it disconnected for two minutes, then reconnect it. Get in the car > > and crank it, then check the codes and report what you find. I'm beginning > > to suspect you'll see an 11. > > After I replaced the TPS, I unhooked the battery to reset the codes. Since > then, I haven't had any codes except 12 and 55. > Wes > > |
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004, maxpower wrote:
> You dont have a fault for distributor reference signal (No distributor > reference signal detected during cranking) You dont have a fault for > Injector peak current (caused by high resistance in the control circuit) > which is also the PCM test, You dont have a fault for injector control > circuit ....and he doesn't have a prayer of doing any meaningful system diagnosis by means of flash codes obtained by watching the "Check Engine" light blink. |
and i except your apoligie Daniel
"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message n.umich.edu... > On Wed, 8 Dec 2004, maxpower wrote: > > > You dont have a fault for distributor reference signal (No distributor > > reference signal detected during cranking) You dont have a fault for > > Injector peak current (caused by high resistance in the control circuit) > > which is also the PCM test, You dont have a fault for injector control > > circuit > > ...and he doesn't have a prayer of doing any meaningful system diagnosis > by means of flash codes obtained by watching the "Check Engine" light > blink. > |
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