1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel delivery problem)
 

I have a 1974 SB with what I call a fuel delivery problem. I want to go
ahead and replace the manual fuel pump with an electric, however, I don't
know what the GPH rating is.

I have looked at the current manual pump, and it has no information on it.

What is the "stock" GPH rating that would apply? I have a choice of 25, 30,
35 & 45 GPH, or am I barking up the wrong tree, and it could be a carb
problem?

Thanks.

Steve

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel deliveryproblem)
 

Steve wrote:

> I have a 1974 SB with what I call a fuel delivery problem. I want to go
> ahead and replace the manual fuel pump with an electric, however, I don't
> know what the GPH rating is.
>
> I have looked at the current manual pump, and it has no information on it.
>
> What is the "stock" GPH rating that would apply? I have a choice of 25, 30,
> 35 & 45 GPH, or am I barking up the wrong tree, and it could be a carb
> problem?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Steve
>
>

If you have a clogged main fuel line, neither pump will work.
There is absolutely no reason that the stock pump can't
be made to work (or replaced with like, if bad).

If the car gets 30 MPG and is going at 60 MPH, that is
consumption of only 2 GPH.

You can test the fuel line by disconnecting it from the
pump and routing it into a suitable gas can.
Jack the frt of the car up.
Fuel should flow freely (steady stream) into the can.
If you get a dribble, the line is clogged.
If you get good stream, allow it to run for several
minutes. This will check for proper tank venting.

If *your* stream is a dribble, you probably have BPH. <g>

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel delivery problem)
 

Jim:

Thanks for "speedy" reply!

Sorry I couldn't resist!

Here is the issue at hand. I will be driving the car for a period of time,
all of a sudden it spits an sputters and dies. If I try to restart it,
(after many pumps of the pedal) it will turn over, then die again. (some
sort of fuel delivery problem, I think). Almost like the fuel is being
chocked off. I have already replaced the manual fuel pump, made sure the
fuel lines are NOT close to the engine, replaced the fuel filter, and even
tried running with the fuel cap off. (Thinking it might be a venting issue).
Could there be an issue of the engine causing the rod from the fuel pump to
cease (stopping fuel flow)? Plus the coil gets quite hot.

If the car sits, and "cools" off, I can start it right up again.

BTW the gas flows from the fuel line fine.

What about vapor lock. If the engine is "operating-properly" I will see the
fuel in the filter bubble (almost looks like it's boiling) (air)?

Sorry I'm being kind of random, but I can't trust the car at all.

Any other info/comments would appreciated.

Thanks.




"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
om...
> Steve wrote:
>
> > I have a 1974 SB with what I call a fuel delivery problem. I want to go
> > ahead and replace the manual fuel pump with an electric, however, I
don't
> > know what the GPH rating is.
> >
> > I have looked at the current manual pump, and it has no information on
it.
> >
> > What is the "stock" GPH rating that would apply? I have a choice of 25,
30,
> > 35 & 45 GPH, or am I barking up the wrong tree, and it could be a carb
> > problem?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
>
> If you have a clogged main fuel line, neither pump will work.
> There is absolutely no reason that the stock pump can't
> be made to work (or replaced with like, if bad).
>
> If the car gets 30 MPG and is going at 60 MPH, that is
> consumption of only 2 GPH.
>
> You can test the fuel line by disconnecting it from the
> pump and routing it into a suitable gas can.
> Jack the frt of the car up.
> Fuel should flow freely (steady stream) into the can.
> If you get a dribble, the line is clogged.
> If you get good stream, allow it to run for several
> minutes. This will check for proper tank venting.
>
> If *your* stream is a dribble, you probably have BPH. <g>
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel deliveryproblem)
 

Steve wrote:
> Jim:
>
> Thanks for "speedy" reply!
>
> Sorry I couldn't resist!
>
> Here is the issue at hand. I will be driving the car for a period of time,
> all of a sudden it spits an sputters and dies. If I try to restart it,
> (after many pumps of the pedal) it will turn over, then die again. (some
> sort of fuel delivery problem, I think). Almost like the fuel is being
> chocked off. I have already replaced the manual fuel pump, made sure the
> fuel lines are NOT close to the engine, replaced the fuel filter, and even
> tried running with the fuel cap off. (Thinking it might be a venting issue).
> Could there be an issue of the engine causing the rod from the fuel pump to
> cease (stopping fuel flow)? Plus the coil gets quite hot.
>
> If the car sits, and "cools" off, I can start it right up again.
>
> BTW the gas flows from the fuel line fine.
>
> What about vapor lock. If the engine is "operating-properly" I will see the
> fuel in the filter bubble (almost looks like it's boiling) (air)?
>
> Sorry I'm being kind of random, but I can't trust the car at all.
>
> Any other info/comments would appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>

Yes, it's possible for the rod to stop pumping.
The rod is a tight fit in the bakelite "spacer" block.
Once in a while, the bakelite swells with age and the
rod gets real tight, Then, when the engine heats up,
the rod sticks.....no pump.

Vapor lock is a rarity in my experience, but possible.

Oil should be hot. At freeway speed on a summer day
it can get to 235F (not an absolute).

Check that all the engine tin is in place and the foam
seal doing its job. Check that the thermostat opens
and the flaps open fully.

You've checked the fuel flow; concentrate on the pump/rod.

Jim

>
>
>
> "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
> om...
>
>>Steve wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have a 1974 SB with what I call a fuel delivery problem. I want to go
>>>ahead and replace the manual fuel pump with an electric, however, I
>
> don't
>
>>>know what the GPH rating is.
>>>
>>>I have looked at the current manual pump, and it has no information on
>
> it.
>
>>>What is the "stock" GPH rating that would apply? I have a choice of 25,
>
> 30,
>
>>>35 & 45 GPH, or am I barking up the wrong tree, and it could be a carb
>>>problem?
>>>
>>>Thanks.
>>>
>>>Steve
>>>
>>>
>>
>>If you have a clogged main fuel line, neither pump will work.
>>There is absolutely no reason that the stock pump can't
>>be made to work (or replaced with like, if bad).
>>
>>If the car gets 30 MPG and is going at 60 MPH, that is
>>consumption of only 2 GPH.
>>
>>You can test the fuel line by disconnecting it from the
>>pump and routing it into a suitable gas can.
>>Jack the frt of the car up.
>>Fuel should flow freely (steady stream) into the can.
>>If you get a dribble, the line is clogged.
>>If you get good stream, allow it to run for several
>>minutes. This will check for proper tank venting.
>>
>>If *your* stream is a dribble, you probably have BPH. <g>
>>
>>Speedy Jim
>>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
>
>

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel delivery problem)
 

" > Yes, it's possible for the rod to stop pumping.
> The rod is a tight fit in the bakelite "spacer" block.
> Once in a while, the bakelite swells with age and the
> rod gets real tight, Then, when the engine heats up,
> the rod sticks.....no pump.
>
> Vapor lock is a rarity in my experience, but possible.
>
> Oil should be hot. At freeway speed on a summer day
> it can get to 235F (not an absolute).
>
> Check that all the engine tin is in place and the foam
> seal doing its job. Check that the thermostat opens
> and the flaps open fully.
>
> You've checked the fuel flow; concentrate on the pump/rod.
>
> Jim

Also take Jim's earlier advise (i *think*) and check the carb bowl when you
have these problems...that will also help to confirm or eliminate the
sticking pump rod...the hot coil should be considered suspect IMHO....

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel delivery problem)
 

I had the exact same problem with the exact same car. It would just
cut off at random and after a while it would go again. Turns out it
was a sticker from a fuel additive bottle floating around in my gas
tank. I went through all sorts of stuff trying to figure out the
problem. Apparently the sticker would clog the hole, and after a while
the suction would be released and the sticker would float off waiting
to reek havoc at a later point. I have no idea how it got there (I
didn't use additives), but finally I took out the gas tank and cleaned
it out after eliminating EVERY other possibility. You might want to
take a peek.

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel delivery problem)
 

Can you go into a little more detail about the "hot coil"?


"Joey Tribiani" > wrote in message
news:pa2ig.86295$IZ2.32888@dukeread07...
>
> " > Yes, it's possible for the rod to stop pumping.
>> The rod is a tight fit in the bakelite "spacer" block.
>> Once in a while, the bakelite swells with age and the
>> rod gets real tight, Then, when the engine heats up,
>> the rod sticks.....no pump.
>>
>> Vapor lock is a rarity in my experience, but possible.
>>
>> Oil should be hot. At freeway speed on a summer day
>> it can get to 235F (not an absolute).
>>
>> Check that all the engine tin is in place and the foam
>> seal doing its job. Check that the thermostat opens
>> and the flaps open fully.
>>
>> You've checked the fuel flow; concentrate on the pump/rod.
>>
>> Jim
>
> Also take Jim's earlier advise (i *think*) and check the carb bowl when
> you have these problems...that will also help to confirm or eliminate the
> sticking pump rod...the hot coil should be considered suspect IMHO....
>

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel delivery problem)
 

"Joe Smith" > wrote in message
. com...
> Can you go into a little more detail about the "hot coil"?
>
>

sometimes when coils are going bad, they tend to overheat....you will
experience ignition loss when they are hot....just a possibility, but i
would eliminate fuel issues first.... if the coil is so hot it could burn
you, it is not a "healthy" coil....

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fuel delivery problem)
 

You might also be certain that you replaced your condensor recently. Driving
for a while and then having the vehicle sputter and die until it "cools
down" matches the symptoms of the condensor too... although electrical
components increase resistance with heat... so if the coil is going bad...
then as it heats up...... be sure the points are not burned.
--
KWW
'65 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
'64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
"Joey Tribiani" > wrote in message
news:mP2ig.86299$IZ2.63953@dukeread07...
>
> "Joe Smith" > wrote in message
> . com...
>> Can you go into a little more detail about the "hot coil"?
>>
>>
>
> sometimes when coils are going bad, they tend to overheat....you will
> experience ignition loss when they are hot....just a possibility, but i
> would eliminate fuel issues first.... if the coil is so hot it could burn
> you, it is not a "healthy" coil....
>

1974 SB - Replacing manual fuel pump with an electric (fueldel...
 

My 74 had a problem which sounds the same. I mounted an electric pump
under the gas tank and the problem went away. I used a pump from auto
zone for about 33 bucks. It is listed in their computers for vw and
puts out about 3-4 lbs pressure. Also get a pressure regulator from
them.

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