Opinions please on a beater
 

Don't wanna trash the inside of my e38 with all the junk I haul around in my
work, so.......

For you high mileage BMW owners out there, is it reasonable to think a
"beater" could be had that will last a couple winters, given reasonable
maintenance/repair, for under $4000? Auctions? The local granny advertising
in the paper?

"Jim Ferris" > haute in die Tasten:

> Don't wanna trash the inside of my e38 with all the junk I haul
> around in my work, so.......
>
> For you high mileage BMW owners out there, is it reasonable to
> think a "beater" could be had that will last a couple winters,
> given reasonable maintenance/repair, for under $4000? Auctions?
> The local granny advertising in the paper?
>
>
>

4000$ should buy you a late E34 with a small engine and autobox, maybe in an unpleasant
colour like white or gold. Check the papers carefully to see if the odometer is
untouched. Be prepared to change the ATF after at least 120.000 km, even if BMW claims
the ATF fill "maintenance free"

Frank

--
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Citroen - Made in Trance

Jim Ferris wrote:

> Don't wanna trash the inside of my e38 with all the junk I haul
> around in my work, so.......
>
> For you high mileage BMW owners out there, is it reasonable to think a
> "beater" could be had that will last a couple winters, given
> reasonable maintenance/repair, for under $4000? Auctions? The local
> granny advertising in the paper?

All of the above, with preference for the granny, who kept her maintenance
records. Your best bet is "old money" neighborhoods, where people buy quality
cars like BMWs, keep them forever (garaged), and maintain them by the book.

I've been putting hundreds of thousands of miles on cars like that for the last
20 years, mostly trouble free. None were beaters -- all but one were pristine
except for high mileage. I frequently got compliments on how nice they looked.
Your best value bet are the "boring" BMWs -- 528e, 525i, 4-door E30, etc. The
sporty BMWs with "cool" appeal, like E30 coupes, tend to have inflated prices.
Stick to manual transmissions if you can, unless the mileage is low. Old
automatics are time bombs.

There's nothing like a reliable, cheap, nice old car for a work car. This is
the best write-off you'll ever get. The IRS will give you 36 cents a mile or
whatever, for a car that actually costs a third that much. ~$3000 is terminal
depreciation for a presentable-looking, good-running BMW. You can often buy one
of these and drive it for another 100k miles, practically for free -- as long as
you're handy with a wrench! It's not so much repairs but maintenance, like the
valve adjustments these old cars require, which are expensive to have done these
days.

Matt O.

EBAY-- watch it and find a seller that you feel is trustworthy. I
wouldnt think it would cost you over 2k for a nice older 3 then fly out
so you can inspect it personally before putting your $$ down.

Corey Shuman wrote:
> EBAY-- watch it and find a seller that you feel is trustworthy. I
> wouldnt think it would cost you over 2k for a nice older 3 then fly out
> so you can inspect it personally before putting your $$ down.
>

Actually, there is an even better eBay strategy. Watch for auctions
that close where the reserve was not met. Contact the seller and find
out what he would take for the car (so he won't have to go through the
agony of relisting and waiting). Go out and see the car in person and
if you like it make the deal. If there are some undisclosed problems
reduce the offering price.


Once you bid on a car and win it at auction, you are pretty much
obligated to buy it regardless of the *actual* condition.

-Fred W