Thermostat Q's
 

Ok you guys have finally talked me into using the thermo and flaps,
after 20 years of not having them at all,( I also drank the Koolaid
about the svda,and that worked out well) this car i bought has them
still installed, so i get the fan shroud back on and etc but no matter
how low i get the "bellows" mounted they arent closing the flaps all
the way, the rod moves freely without the thermo screwed to it, I put
marks on the fan shroud and the connecting rod in front (of car) so i
could tell if it opens and closes all the way and at dead cold it only
closes the flaps about half way. is it procedure to bend the rod more
to get them to close or is that enough to insure proper heat
distribution for warmup? I still have the eng here in garage, so i
can adjust anything, but I wanna take her for a drive! so any help is
appreciated!!!

Thermostat Q's
 

"Cletus" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> Ok you guys have finally talked me into using the thermo and flaps,
> after 20 years of not having them at all,( I also drank the Koolaid
> about the svda,and that worked out well) this car i bought has them
> still installed, so i get the fan shroud back on and etc but no matter
> how low i get the "bellows" mounted they arent closing the flaps all
> the way, the rod moves freely without the thermo screwed to it, I put
> marks on the fan shroud and the connecting rod in front (of car) so i
> could tell if it opens and closes all the way and at dead cold it only
> closes the flaps about half way. is it procedure to bend the rod more
> to get them to close or is that enough to insure proper heat
> distribution for warmup? I still have the eng here in garage, so i
> can adjust anything, but I wanna take her for a drive! so any help is
> appreciated!!!
>

you can bend the arm on the lead flap that the rod connects to.... but when
you get in to that the single most important thing to make sure of is, when
the thermostat is at the top of the bracket(fully extended) the flaps are
completely open....

Thermostat Q's
 

Joey Tribiani wrote:
> "Cletus" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
>
>>Ok you guys have finally talked me into using the thermo and flaps,
>>after 20 years of not having them at all,( I also drank the Koolaid
>>about the svda,and that worked out well) this car i bought has them
>>still installed, so i get the fan shroud back on and etc but no matter
>>how low i get the "bellows" mounted they arent closing the flaps all
>>the way, the rod moves freely without the thermo screwed to it, I put
>>marks on the fan shroud and the connecting rod in front (of car) so i
>>could tell if it opens and closes all the way and at dead cold it only
>>closes the flaps about half way. is it procedure to bend the rod more
>>to get them to close or is that enough to insure proper heat
>>distribution for warmup? I still have the eng here in garage, so i
>>can adjust anything, but I wanna take her for a drive! so any help is
>>appreciated!!!
>>
>
>
> you can bend the arm on the lead flap that the rod connects to.... but when
> you get in to that the single most important thing to make sure of is, when
> the thermostat is at the top of the bracket(fully extended) the flaps are
> completely open....
>
>


You beat me to it Joey :)
Yea, fully open when needed is more important than fully closed when cold.

Jan

Thermostat Q's
 

On Apr 15, 1:11 pm, "Cletus" > wrote:
> Ok you guys have finally talked me into using the thermo and flaps,
> after 20 years of not having them at all...

I've never had a functioning thermostat on my 78 type2. Hard to find
a working type4 thermo. Pick it up if you run across one. Anyhow, I
ended up going with a type1 thermostat which is only about 20 degrees
difference. Engine warms up in about 4 minutes now. Much happier.
The past few month, I was barely seeing my oil temps get over 100.

Peace, CaliVW78
www.calivw78.com

Thermostat Q's
 

On Apr 17, 1:25 am, " > wrote:
> On Apr 15, 1:11 pm, "Cletus" > wrote:
>
> > Ok you guys have finally talked me into using the thermo and flaps,
> > after 20 years of not having them at all...
>
> I've never had a functioning thermostat on my 78 type2. Hard to find
> a working type4 thermo. Pick it up if you run across one. Anyhow, I
> ended up going with a type1 thermostat which is only about 20 degrees
> difference. Engine warms up in about 4 minutes now. Much happier.
> The past few month, I was barely seeing my oil temps get over 100.
>
> Peace, CaliVW78www.calivw78.com

Why did you need higher oil temps?

Thermostat Q's
 

Dennis wrote:
> On Apr 17, 1:25 am, " > wrote:
>
>>On Apr 15, 1:11 pm, "Cletus" > wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Ok you guys have finally talked me into using the thermo and flaps,
>>>after 20 years of not having them at all...
>>
>>I've never had a functioning thermostat on my 78 type2. Hard to find
>>a working type4 thermo. Pick it up if you run across one. Anyhow, I
>>ended up going with a type1 thermostat which is only about 20 degrees
>>difference. Engine warms up in about 4 minutes now. Much happier.
>>The past few month, I was barely seeing my oil temps get over 100.
>>
>>Peace, CaliVW78www.calivw78.com
>
>
> Why did you need higher oil temps?
>

Assuming he is in the US and is talking about 100 degrees Fahrenheit...

The engine needs to run at it's proper operating temperature, for all of
the metal parts to reach their designed thermal expansion. An engine
that is running too cool, is running under incorrect tolerances, and
wears out much faster, wastes fuel, and suffers from poor performance.
You also run a high risk of seeing more severe engine damage as a direct
result of incorrect cooling, be it too hot or too cool, or uneven
cooling. For example, if the head studs run too cool, and the heads
reach their normal temperature, the stud "torque" increases way beyond
specification, and the studs pull the threads out of the case. The 10mm
studs were especially prone to pulling out, since they didn't stretch
enough or fast enough when the engine warmed up.

In addition, the engine case gets a lot of moisture condensation inside,
and it can only be gotten rid of by heating the oil enough to evaporate
the water in it. Water in oil is not good. It causes foaming and lack of
lubrication to critical parts, and rust.

Also, the engine needs to reach it's normal operating temperature in a
certain amount of time, certain parts in certain sequence, for
everything to thermally expand in a controlled manner.



Now, if the poster CaliVW78 meant 100 deg Celcius, he does not need any
more heat. :)


Jan