1994 VW Jetta III cranks and won't start
two weeks ago, on my way from from work, my jetta was losing coolant
due to broken hose, got overheated and stalled right after i had parked it. now it will crank but won't start. i first checked oil and coolant and there's no sign of blew head gasket, checked all the fuses and replaced distributor cap & rotor and spark plugs. the spark plugs wires have good continuity. i also checked the timing belt and it's is in good condition and has correct timing. still no go all the relays are clicking when ignition key is switched to on. the ignition coil has primary resistance of 0.6 Ohm and secondary resistance of 3400 Ohm and 12V output with the ignition key on. according to haynes manual, they are within specs. a strong smell of gas is present in the cabin when engine is cranking, but spark plugs are dried and there's no sparks at the distributor. and i noticed that the shift indicator in the dash board won't change accordingly to the gear shift. and the string that looks like "1n 02" is flashing in place of the odometer when the key turned to ON. i spent the last two weekends fixing it to no avail any idea will be greatly appreciated. oh it's a jetta III GL model with 4 cyl 2.0L ABA FI engine |
1994 VW Jetta III 2.0 auto cranks and won't start
REPLIES WITHIN
> wrote in message oups.com... > two weeks ago, on my way from from work, my jetta was losing coolant > due to broken hose, got overheated and stalled right after i had > parked it. now it will crank but won't start. Where was this broken hose? How could you tell there was no sign of a blown head gasket? > i first checked oil and coolant and there's no sign of blew head > gasket, checked all the fuses and replaced distributor cap & rotor and > spark plugs. the spark plugs wires have good continuity. i also > checked the timing belt and it's is in good condition and has correct > timing. > > still no go Possibly: Ign switch Ign coil Engine Speed Sensor Faulty main engine wiring harness plug or connections wet. > > all the relays are clicking when ignition key is switched to on. the > ignition coil has primary resistance of 0.6 Ohm and secondary > resistance of 3400 Ohm and 12V output with the ignition key on. > according to haynes manual, they are within specs. Bentley manual would be more informative. ;-) Try to start engine using a remote starter and leave the ign switched on. MAKE SURE IT IS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL!!! > > a strong smell of gas is present in the cabin when engine is cranking, > but spark plugs are dried and there's no sparks at the distributor. Hmmm you smell gas but the plugs are not wet? That smell has to come from somewhere. Maybe you have a fuel leak......but you should still get a spark. This sounds like another problem that should be addressed. > and i noticed that the shift indicator in the dash board won't change > accordingly to the gear shift. and the string that looks like "1n 02" > is flashing in place of the odometer when the key turned to ON. Dash Gear Shift Indicator is not functioning??? I would examine any electrical plugs on the auto trans and engine that might have had a shower of coolant! "1n 02" is Normal....after so many miles those service indicators will come on and need to be reset after servicing. ;-) -- later, dave (One out of many daves) |
1994 VW Jetta III 2.0 auto cranks and won't start
On Jun 4, 9:31 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
> REPLIES WITHIN > > > wrote in message > > oups.com... > > > two weeks ago, on my way from from work, my jetta was losing coolant > > due to broken hose, got overheated and stalled right after i had > > parked it. now it will crank but won't start. > > Where was this broken hose? > How could you tell there was no sign of a blown head gasket? > > > i first checked oil and coolant and there's no sign of blew head > > gasket, checked all the fuses and replaced distributor cap & rotor and > > spark plugs. the spark plugs wires have good continuity. i also > > checked the timing belt and it's is in good condition and has correct > > timing. > > > still no go > > Possibly: > Ign switch > Ign coil > Engine Speed Sensor > Faulty main engine wiring harness plug or connections wet. > > > > > all the relays are clicking when ignition key is switched to on. the > > ignition coil has primary resistance of 0.6 Ohm and secondary > > resistance of 3400 Ohm and 12V output with the ignition key on. > > according to haynes manual, they are within specs. > > Bentley manual would be more informative. ;-) > Try to start engine using a remote starter and leave the ign switched on. > MAKE SURE IT IS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL!!! > > > > > a strong smell of gas is present in the cabin when engine is cranking, > > but spark plugs are dried and there's no sparks at the distributor. > > Hmmm you smell gas but the plugs are not wet? That smell has to come from > somewhere. Maybe you have a fuel leak......but you should still get a > spark. This sounds like another problem that should be addressed. > > > and i noticed that the shift indicator in the dash board won't change > > accordingly to the gear shift. and the string that looks like "1n 02" > > is flashing in place of the odometer when the key turned to ON. > > Dash Gear Shift Indicator is not functioning??? I would examine any > electrical plugs on the auto trans and engine that might have had a shower > of coolant! > > "1n 02" is Normal....after so many miles those service indicators will come > on and need to be reset after servicing. ;-) > > -- > later, > dave > (One out of many daves) hi dave, thanks so much for the reply the hose connecting the reservoir and the engine block was broken, a small breech near the connector, but the engine did have a good shower of coolant.. last time it stalled, it was when i tried to wash the running engine at the car wash, took about half an hour to start and run again, this time seems no hope :( i fixed the hose, intentionally dumped more coolant and was happy to see no traces of oil, so i guess the head gasket is ok.. i filled the coolant up and wiped off the excess, and waited a few days for the engine to dry then came back and changed the plugs, dist. cap and rotor.. yeah i did remote started the car, i used a 8 gauge copper wire to jumper the starter's solenoid to battery ( + ) terminal, ignition key in ON position, gear in NEUTRAL, same thing, cranks but won't run, at least i can conclude that the ign switch is OK i then touched the fuel injectors while cranking the engine and they are not responsive.. actually i have no idea how the injectors would "wiggle" when they are working, at the intake manifold inlet i smelled only a faint odor of gasoline i cleaned all electrical connectors with CRC cleaner and so far evrything seems fine but no sparks, no injectors pulses yeah haynes manual sucks.. i googled for information and narrowed the problems down to the coolant temp sensor, the camshaft sensor, the engine speed sensor and the ECU my car has a distributor so i guess the engine speed sensor is only for RPM and the ECU wouldn't cut off ignition when it's gone bad, a bad camshaft sensor maybe the cause, but then i thought the coolant sensor got the most damages during engine overheating and i cringed when i thought that maybe the ECU is dead too.. my question is would a faulty coolant sensor cause the ECU to abandon ignition and injection? a safety measure perhaps? oh and i dont see the check engine light coming on when the ign key is ON and prior to cranking... and the OEM alarm wouldnt go off when i reconnect the ( - ) terminal... my ECU is dead? |
1994 VW Jetta III 2.0 auto cranks and won't start
REPLIES WITHIN
> wrote in message ups.com... > > thanks so much for the reply > > the hose connecting the reservoir and the engine block was broken, a > small breech near the connector, but the engine did have a good shower > of coolant.. last time it stalled, it was when i tried to wash the > running engine at the car wash, took about half an hour to start and > run again, this time seems no hope :( > > i fixed the hose, intentionally dumped more coolant and was happy to > see no traces of oil, so i guess the head gasket is ok.. i filled the > coolant up and wiped off the excess, and waited a few days for the > engine to dry then came back and changed the plugs, dist. cap and > rotor.. > > yeah i did remote started the car, i used a 8 gauge copper wire to > jumper the starter's solenoid to battery ( + ) terminal, ignition key > in ON position, gear in NEUTRAL, same thing, cranks but won't run, at > least i can conclude that the ign switch is OK Sounds good > i then touched the fuel injectors while cranking the engine and they > are not responsive.. actually i have no idea how the injectors would > "wiggle" when they are working, at the intake manifold inlet i smelled > only a faint odor of gasoline They might click when working and should be working while cranking the engine over. > i cleaned all electrical connectors with CRC cleaner and so far > evrything seems fine but no sparks, no injectors pulses You cleaned ALL connections? > yeah haynes manual sucks.. i googled for information and narrowed the > problems down to the coolant temp sensor, the camshaft sensor, the > engine speed sensor and the ECU The camsensor (AKA ign distributor) would/should not cause this problem and the engine could run with the camsensor disconnected or bad. > my car has a distributor so i guess the engine speed sensor is only > for RPM and the ECU wouldn't cut off ignition when it's gone bad, a > bad camshaft sensor maybe the cause, but then i thought the coolant > sensor got the most damages during engine overheating and i cringed > when i thought that maybe the ECU is dead too.. The crank sensor could cause a non-start problem! I wonder if the needle of the tachometer would jump while cranking the engine? > my question is would a faulty coolant sensor cause the ECU to abandon > ignition and injection? a safety measure perhaps? > oh and i dont see the check engine light coming on when the ign key is > ON and prior to cranking... and the OEM alarm wouldnt go off when i > reconnect the ( - ) terminal... my ECU is dead? Hmmm that check engine light NOT coming on is a clue! Start looking at the fuses and relays. But like on a '96 I had, it may just be a bulb! lol I don't think a faulty coolant sensor would cause a no-spark problem. I suppose you don't have a vag-com tool to plug into the ECM. 8^) > |
1994 VW Jetta III 2.0 auto cranks and won't start
On Jun 6, 10:49 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
> REPLIES WITHIN > > > wrote in message > > ups.com... > > > > > > > thanks so much for the reply > > > the hose connecting the reservoir and the engine block was broken, a > > small breech near the connector, but the engine did have a good shower > > of coolant.. last time it stalled, it was when i tried to wash the > > running engine at the car wash, took about half an hour to start and > > run again, this time seems no hope :( > > > i fixed the hose, intentionally dumped more coolant and was happy to > > see no traces of oil, so i guess the head gasket is ok.. i filled the > > coolant up and wiped off the excess, and waited a few days for the > > engine to dry then came back and changed the plugs, dist. cap and > > rotor.. > > > yeah i did remote started the car, i used a 8 gauge copper wire to > > jumper the starter's solenoid to battery ( + ) terminal, ignition key > > in ON position, gear in NEUTRAL, same thing, cranks but won't run, at > > least i can conclude that the ign switch is OK > > Sounds good > > > i then touched the fuel injectors while cranking the engine and they > > are not responsive.. actually i have no idea how the injectors would > > "wiggle" when they are working, at the intake manifold inlet i smelled > > only a faint odor of gasoline > > They might click when working and should be working while cranking the > engine over. > > > i cleaned all electrical connectors with CRC cleaner and so far > > evrything seems fine but no sparks, no injectors pulses > > You cleaned ALL connections? > > > yeah haynes manual sucks.. i googled for information and narrowed the > > problems down to the coolant temp sensor, the camshaft sensor, the > > engine speed sensor and the ECU > > The camsensor (AKA ign distributor) would/should not cause this problem and > the engine could run with the camsensor disconnected or bad. > > > my car has a distributor so i guess the engine speed sensor is only > > for RPM and the ECU wouldn't cut off ignition when it's gone bad, a > > bad camshaft sensor maybe the cause, but then i thought the coolant > > sensor got the most damages during engine overheating and i cringed > > when i thought that maybe the ECU is dead too.. > > The crank sensor could cause a non-start problem! > I wonder if the needle of the tachometer would jump while cranking the > engine? > > > my question is would a faulty coolant sensor cause the ECU to abandon > > ignition and injection? a safety measure perhaps? > > oh and i dont see the check engine light coming on when the ign key is > > ON and prior to cranking... and the OEM alarm wouldnt go off when i > > reconnect the ( - ) terminal... my ECU is dead? > > Hmmm that check engine light NOT coming on is a clue! > Start looking at the fuses and relays. But like on a '96 I had, it may > just be a bulb! lol > I don't think a faulty coolant sensor would cause a no-spark problem. > I suppose you don't have a vag-com tool to plug into the ECM. 8^) > > it's the ECU!!! i am sure i dont have the vag-com.. :( it could have saved me a lot of time... but yeah i did check the fuses and relays first thing.. i just can't recall seeing the check engine light on recently, either when cranking or running, but like you said i think it could be a bad bulb, mine had been overworked. :) i did clean all the connectors, spayed CRC cleaner on every each one them... i only disconnected and clean the inside a few connectors that i suspected getting showered by the coolant, and ones that go to camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor and coolant sensor i found out that in case of a faulty coolant sensor, the ECU will use the default 80 C or 176 F, so it's not the coolant sensor. also on 2.0L engine the camshaft sensor only works for advanced/retarded timing and the engine can start with it disconnected, so neither the camshaft sensor i was able to download the bentley manual for BMW 3 series and check the Jetta crankshaft sensor following the instructions, the resistance across pin 1-2 is 570 ohms compared to 1280 ohms specs of that of the BMW. checked with napaonline and they are different part numbers, albeit looking exactly the same.. while i have no idea if 570 ohms is still within specs, at least the sensor was not completely dead, yes? i reached under the rain gutter and tapped the ECU a few times with a wooden stick, then cranked the engine and noticed a significantly slower crank, some sort of resistance that caused by chamber combustions, though weak and uneven.... also another good thing was that the dash shift indicator worked correctly. tried cranking about five times more but still no start. so i pulled the ECU off the compartment, unpluged the harness and examined the wires and prongs, made sure nothing was broken or loose, put everything back, and the first thing i noticed was the dash shift indicator turning wacko again.... i tapped the damn ECU again, and this time it's like beating a dead horse.. i'd probably look for another ECU at a junk yard, dont know if i'll have much luck finding used VW parts in houston TX... haha... thanks again dave |
1994 VW Jetta III 2.0 auto cranks and won't start
> wrote in message oups.com... > it's the ECU!!! i am sure WELL that is one possible cause, but I say check all of the wiring from the ECM/ECU plug using the Bentley testing chart. If the ECM/ECU is not getting power and ground then it will not work. ;-) Bentley $44.07 http://tinyurl.com/22obwb or the long link http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Jet...1272344&sr=8-3 The ECM should be the LAST thing to suspect and change! Ign switch is one of the first I look at. > i dont have the vag-com.. :( it could have saved me a lot of time... > but yeah i did check the fuses and relays first thing.. i just can't > recall seeing the check engine light on recently, either when cranking > or running, but like you said i think it could be a bad bulb, mine had > been overworked. :) Some use the vag-com clones found on Ebay for around $20. I am not sure that they work but for $20...........why not try one! ;-) > i did clean all the connectors, spayed CRC cleaner on every each one > them... i only disconnected and clean the inside a few connectors that > i suspected getting showered by the coolant, and ones that go to > camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor and coolant sensor > > i found out that in case of a faulty coolant sensor, the ECU will use > the default 80 C or 176 F, so it's not the coolant sensor. also on > 2.0L engine the camshaft sensor only works for advanced/retarded > timing and the engine can start with it disconnected, so neither the > camshaft sensor > > i was able to download the bentley manual for BMW 3 series and check > the Jetta crankshaft sensor following the instructions, the resistance > across pin 1-2 is 570 ohms compared to 1280 ohms specs of that of the > BMW. checked with napaonline and they are different part numbers, > albeit looking exactly the same.. while i have no idea if 570 ohms is > still within specs, at least the sensor was not completely dead, > yes? > > i reached under the rain gutter and tapped the ECU a few times with a > wooden stick, then cranked the engine and noticed a significantly > slower crank, some sort of resistance that caused by chamber > combustions, though weak and uneven.... also another good thing was > that the dash shift indicator worked correctly. tried cranking about > five times more but still no start. > > so i pulled the ECU off the compartment, unpluged the harness and > examined the wires and prongs, made sure nothing was broken or loose, > put everything back, and the first thing i noticed was the dash shift > indicator turning wacko again.... i tapped the damn ECU again, and > this time it's like beating a dead horse.. > > i'd probably look for another ECU at a junk yard, dont know if i'll > have much luck finding used VW parts in houston TX... haha... ebay has a '95 ECM going pretty cheap right now http://tinyurl.com/2g9rl7 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elect...spagenameZWDVW You NEED to make sure all the ECM's numbers and letters are identical to yours. |
1994 VW Jetta III 2.0 auto cranks and won't start
On Jun 7, 11:40 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
> > wrote in message > > oups.com... > > > it's the ECU!!! i am sure > > WELL that is one possible cause, but I say check all of the wiring from the > ECM/ECU plug using the Bentley testing chart. If the ECM/ECU is not getting > power and ground then it will not work. ;-) > Bentley $44.07 http://tinyurl.com/22obwb or the long linkhttp://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Jetta-Golf-GTI-1993-1999/dp/08376036... > > The ECM should be the LAST thing to suspect and change! > Ign switch is one of the first I look at. > > > i dont have the vag-com.. :( it could have saved me a lot of time... > > but yeah i did check the fuses and relays first thing.. i just can't > > recall seeing the check engine light on recently, either when cranking > > or running, but like you said i think it could be a bad bulb, mine had > > been overworked. :) > > Some use the vag-com clones found on Ebay for around $20. I am not sure > that they work but for $20...........why not try one! ;-) > > > > > i did clean all the connectors, spayed CRC cleaner on every each one > > them... i only disconnected and clean the inside a few connectors that > > i suspected getting showered by the coolant, and ones that go to > > camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor and coolant sensor > > > i found out that in case of a faulty coolant sensor, the ECU will use > > the default 80 C or 176 F, so it's not the coolant sensor. also on > > 2.0L engine the camshaft sensor only works for advanced/retarded > > timing and the engine can start with it disconnected, so neither the > > camshaft sensor > > > i was able to download the bentley manual for BMW 3 series and check > > the Jetta crankshaft sensor following the instructions, the resistance > > across pin 1-2 is 570 ohms compared to 1280 ohms specs of that of the > > BMW. checked with napaonline and they are different part numbers, > > albeit looking exactly the same.. while i have no idea if 570 ohms is > > still within specs, at least the sensor was not completely dead, > > yes? > > > i reached under the rain gutter and tapped the ECU a few times with a > > wooden stick, then cranked the engine and noticed a significantly > > slower crank, some sort of resistance that caused by chamber > > combustions, though weak and uneven.... also another good thing was > > that the dash shift indicator worked correctly. tried cranking about > > five times more but still no start. > > > so i pulled the ECU off the compartment, unpluged the harness and > > examined the wires and prongs, made sure nothing was broken or loose, > > put everything back, and the first thing i noticed was the dash shift > > indicator turning wacko again.... i tapped the damn ECU again, and > > this time it's like beating a dead horse.. > > > i'd probably look for another ECU at a junk yard, dont know if i'll > > have much luck finding used VW parts in houston TX... haha... > > ebay has a '95 ECM going pretty cheap right now http://tinyurl.com/2g9rl7http://cgi....e-ECM-95-Volks... > > You NEED to make sure all the ECM's numbers and letters are identical to > yours. hi dave i'll look for it on eBay, thanks for pointing that out.. i've haven't bought anything from eBay for like two years, but i'd been an eBay junkie before...:) long before it died my jetta would behave like a barometer, running erratically on a humid day, misfires, hesistation.. etc. now it only makes sense if a failing ECU is resposible for that.. why did VW engineers decided to hide the engine computer under the rain gutter is beyond me, did they set up their home computers in a barn too? sheesh!!! now what is responsible for a failing computer? beside short circuit, i'd say water, heat, humidity, shock.. and so on.. and also some pointers led me to the Split Fire spark plugs that i used in the last tune up. when i pulled them out, 3 out of 4 look corroded and fouled. some people believe that the unsual shape of the electrode creates too much electro-magnetic noises (RF interferences) that eventually damaged the engine computer chip. i am not so sure about that but i'll stay with Bosch or NGK platinum from now on til i find another brain for my jetta.. thanks |
1994 VW Jetta III 2.0 auto cranks and won't start
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1994 VW Jetta III 2.0 auto cranks and won't start
Yeah Tom is probably right.
The ign coils (ignition transformer) are a very weak link in the 2.0s and I ONLY buy new ones from the dealer. All of the aftermarket ign coils I have seen and tested have failed!!! Sometimes after a week and sometimes after a year but all have failed either providing a weak spark or no spark at all. ;-( I have heard that using Splitfire plugs can be good if you use the proper wires to go with it for the added benefit. I WOULD NEVER USE SPLITFIRES IN MY VWS OR AUDIS. Maybe on my domestic Jeep. NOT! I prefer using the stock long life spark plugs! -- later, dave (One out of many daves) "Tom's VR6" > wrote in message ... > In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, wrote: > >> >> >>long before it died my jetta would behave like a barometer, running >>erratically on a humid day, misfires, hesistation.. etc. now it only >>makes sense if a failing ECU is resposible for that.. > > That sounds like a coil pack. > > >> why did VW >>engineers decided to hide the engine computer under the rain gutter is >>beyond me, did they set up their home computers in a barn too? >>sheesh!!! > > Putting the computer in the engine compartment reduces the number of > wires running thru the firewall. |
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