Cars - How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

AutoBanter (http://www.autobanter.com/index.php)

- Technology (http://www.autobanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=8)

- - How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack (http://www.autobanter.com/showthread.php?t=323857)

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 3:23:08 PM UTC-8, Comboverfish wrote:
> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>
> Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>
> Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> experiences.
>
> The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> hardly be any stroke left.
>
> Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> it to work any other way):
>
> 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>
> 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> are designed to interchange easily).
>
> 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> enough oil. Slower is better here.
>
> 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>
> 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> becomes less than 100% effective.
>
> 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> 1/2 hour at worst.
>
> I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> me. HTH.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO

On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 3:23:08 PM UTC-8, Comboverfish wrote:
> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>
> Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>
> Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> experiences.
>
> The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> hardly be any stroke left.
>
> Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> it to work any other way):
>
> 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>
> 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> are designed to interchange easily).
>
> 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> enough oil. Slower is better here.
>
> 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>
> 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> becomes less than 100% effective.
>
> 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> 1/2 hour at worst.
>
> I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> me. HTH.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

Where can I get my jack fixed I am in south river ontario
You can text me at 705 495 5016

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

In article >,
> wrote:
>Where can I get my jack fixed I am in south river ontario
>You can text me at 705 495 5016

I hate to tell you this, but those things are not really worth fixing. You
can see a teardown of a similar model on youtube. Everything is just swaged
together, it's not designed to be repaired.

There's a reason why a proper jack with a chromed piston is more money.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

Thank you for this old thread. Its 2017 -Definitely helped revive my 15 year old jack. Same here the fill and bleed method did nothing. That far screw you explained definitely did the job. Just like new. No seal leaks just needed that fill and adjustment in the right spot you pointed out. Again, very helpful.

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 4:23:08 PM UTC-7, Comboverfish wrote:
> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>
> Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>
> Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> experiences.
>
> The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> hardly be any stroke left.
>
> Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> it to work any other way):
>
> 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>
> 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> are designed to interchange easily).
>
> 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> enough oil. Slower is better here.
>
> 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>
> 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> becomes less than 100% effective.
>
> 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> 1/2 hour at worst.
>
> I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> me. HTH.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

Replacement parts for this jack can be found at Lazzar's Floor Jack: HCRCnow.com

Someone said these jacks are not worth fixing, but my math says they are. I've had my jack for almost 20 years and just recently had the first problem with it ever... The universal joint that opens and closes the lift valve broke. About $125 for a new jack vs. $26.35 for a Universal joint kit and about the same for a seal kit.

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

Did you find out I am in Huntsville and have a problem with the Michelin 3 1/2 tone

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

replying to schumacherrobert217, Shannon wrote:
Where did you get the seal kit at

--
for full context, visit https://www.motorsforum.com/tech/how...ack-78706-.htm

How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On Sunday, December 20, 2015 at 1:41:15 PM UTC-6, wrote:
> On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 6:23:08 PM UTC-5, Comboverfish wrote:
> > Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> > quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> > cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> > offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> > of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> > noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> > seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> > this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
> >
> > Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> > http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
> >
> > Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> > this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> > experiences.
> >
> > The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> > 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> > decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> > hardly be any stroke left.
> >
> > Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> > it to work any other way):
> >
> > 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> > This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> > service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> > close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> > Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> > apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> > absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> > unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> > completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> > slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> > plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> > spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> > turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
> >
> > 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> > ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> > oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> > through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> > keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> > avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> > since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> > are designed to interchange easily).
> >
> > 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> > As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> > you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> > enough oil. Slower is better here.
> >
> > 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> > further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> > hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> > temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
> >
> > 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> > weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> > pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> > engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> > becomes less than 100% effective.
> >
> > 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> > it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> > and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> > the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> > steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> > all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> > I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> > would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> > 1/2 hour at worst.
> >
> > I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> > plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> > me. HTH.
> >
> > Toyota MDT in MO
>
> Or you can just pop the rubber plug at the top of the cylinder (visible with the magnetic tray removed), and add oil. I do it al the time until I rebuild it with new seals.

Yes, popping off the rubber plug on the top (middle) of the cylinder is a better approach.

TRY THIS: give the jack 1 or 2 compression pumps, so it is raised about an inch or two from the bottom. Pop off the rubber plug and fill the master cylinder until it is full. Then place paper towels or a rag underneath the hydraulic cylinder. Twist the jack handle counter clockwise and release the pressure. You should see an outflow of air bubbles and excess oil. When it stops, reinstall the rubber plug (if ANY airspace remains, refill the oil level first).

This is a cheaper alternative to replacing the seal kit.