Too Much Oil Pressure
 

I just built an 1835.
92 mm cylinders, with stock 69 mm crank, with 110 cam.
I also put a full flow oil system with schadek, 30 mm hd pump with
external cooler, and filter. I am using Fram HP1 oil filter as per
schadek's recommendations.
I am using the stock oil pressure bypass valves and springs, that came
with the dual relief case.
I did drill and tap the case, so oil exits at pump cover, runs to
filter, up through cooler, and then back into block in the upper left
corner of block.
For some reason I keep blowing the seal on my filter.
As near as I can tell it is running 45 to 55 psi, and will surge to
65, and up to 80 at 5000 rpms. I am running 20w 50 oil. The pressure
will drop to 20 psi at idle.
Is there a way to adjust the bypass valves down, so that the system
does not build so much pressure?
If engine is cold, I can blow seal with by reving the engine once, to
1400 to 2000 rpms.

Too Much Oil Pressure
 

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>I just built an 1835.
> 92 mm cylinders, with stock 69 mm crank, with 110 cam.
> I also put a full flow oil system with schadek, 30 mm hd pump with
> external cooler, and filter. I am using Fram HP1 oil filter as per
> schadek's recommendations.
> I am using the stock oil pressure bypass valves and springs, that came
> with the dual relief case.
> I did drill and tap the case, so oil exits at pump cover, runs to
> filter, up through cooler, and then back into block in the upper left
> corner of block.
> For some reason I keep blowing the seal on my filter.
> As near as I can tell it is running 45 to 55 psi, and will surge to
> 65, and up to 80 at 5000 rpms. I am running 20w 50 oil. The pressure
> will drop to 20 psi at idle.
> Is there a way to adjust the bypass valves down, so that the system
> does not build so much pressure?
> If engine is cold, I can blow seal with by reving the engine once, to
> 1400 to 2000 rpms.

You have a number of things stacked up against you. The pump is
oversized. A 26 Shadek puts out a lot as it is. A 30 is usually used
on tired engines with oil pressure problems as a band-aid.

Try a 10W30 oil. Yes, it's the not the "trendy" choice but it will flow
through the cooler. Oil flow is critical on these engines, even
more so than oil pressure. Leave the sludge for the transaxle.

What kind of fittings and what size hose? For example, 3/8" (#6)
hose and barbed fittings are a horribly restrictive. Lots of cheap
kits come with these. Find the smallest fitting I/D and measure
it accurately. That's what this massive pump is trying to push the
oil through. Consider #10 teflon-lined stainless with crimped
#10 ends and steel adapters. It's flexible, handles high heat,
and will never come apart or leak. Not cheap, but shop around.
Lots of hydraulic supply shops make up these lines and some
might cut you a deal. I even reamed out the inside of the steel
adapters with a 7/16" drill and even at that, the passageway is
still 1/8" smaller than the internal passages in a late DP case.
Think about it!

Lastly, check out the oil relief/regulator in the case. The one
towards the rear of the car. Polish the piston with crocus until it
shines. Jam a wood dowel into the end and carefully check
that it slides all the way up the bore without any hanging up.
When the case gets tapped for full-flow, sometimes the cut
threads leave a sharp edge or burr that can hang up the piston.
Polish it out if you have to. Compare the spring(s) with known
samples to make sure you didn't get a "booster" kit spring.
You can't adjust these other than use the correct parts.

To blow the seal out on an HP1 means you've got pressure
well into the hundreds.

Too Much Oil Pressure
 

Raymond Lowe wrote:

> Lastly, check out the oil relief/regulator in the case. The one
> towards the rear of the car. Polish the piston with crocus until it
> shines. Jam a wood dowel into the end and carefully check
> that it slides all the way up the bore without any hanging up.
> When the case gets tapped for full-flow, sometimes the cut
> threads leave a sharp edge or burr that can hang up the piston.
> Polish it out if you have to. Compare the spring(s) with known
> samples to make sure you didn't get a "booster" kit spring.
> You can't adjust these other than use the correct parts.
>
> To blow the seal out on an HP1 means you've got pressure
> well into the hundreds.

The only thing I can add is check the relief spring and piston towards
the front of the car. If it has the long piston with a section turned
down, swap it out for a shorter stock one. I had the same problem with
my engine and a stock sized pump after a rebuild on a similar but
somewhat milder engine (1690cc, Engle 100 cam and full flow case.)

Tony

Too Much Oil Pressure
 

Could be bad oil filter adapter, if it's bugpack or empi (not sure
which one) it will not seat properly and when everything is nice and
cool blow the seal out. Check whether mating surface on the adapter
is flat. cb adapter is good.

Anton

On Apr 13, 12:48 pm, Anthony W > wrote:
> Raymond Lowe wrote:
> > Lastly, check out the oil relief/regulator in the case. The one
> > towards the rear of the car. Polish the piston with crocus until it
> > shines. Jam a wood dowel into the end and carefully check
> > that it slides all the way up the bore without any hanging up.
> > When the case gets tapped for full-flow, sometimes the cut
> > threads leave a sharp edge or burr that can hang up the piston.
> > Polish it out if you have to. Compare the spring(s) with known
> > samples to make sure you didn't get a "booster" kit spring.
> > You can't adjust these other than use the correct parts.
>
> > To blow the seal out on an HP1 means you've got pressure
> > well into the hundreds.
>
> The only thing I can add is check the relief spring and piston towards
> the front of the car. If it has the long piston with a section turned
> down, swap it out for a shorter stock one. I had the same problem with
> my engine and a stock sized pump after a rebuild on a similar but
> somewhat milder engine (1690cc, Engle 100 cam and full flow case.)
>
> Tony

Too Much Oil Pressure
 

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>I just built an 1835.
> 92 mm cylinders, with stock 69 mm crank, with 110 cam.
> I also put a full flow oil system with schadek, 30 mm hd pump with
> external cooler, and filter. I am using Fram HP1 oil filter as per
> schadek's recommendations.
> I am using the stock oil pressure bypass valves and springs, that came
> with the dual relief case.
> I did drill and tap the case, so oil exits at pump cover, runs to
> filter, up through cooler, and then back into block in the upper left
> corner of block.
> For some reason I keep blowing the seal on my filter.
> As near as I can tell it is running 45 to 55 psi, and will surge to
> 65, and up to 80 at 5000 rpms. I am running 20w 50 oil. The pressure
> will drop to 20 psi at idle.
> Is there a way to adjust the bypass valves down, so that the system
> does not build so much pressure?
> If engine is cold, I can blow seal with by reving the engine once, to
> 1400 to 2000 rpms.
>

before you go through all the other things spoken of, get a good
filter....the fram hp1 has had many many folks report blowing the seal
out...your pressure isn't excessive.....

(just for info, the oil pressure relief/regulator piston and spring is the
front(front is front) piston in a dual relief case)

Too Much Oil Pressure
 

Joey Tribiani wrote:
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>
>>I just built an 1835.
>>92 mm cylinders, with stock 69 mm crank, with 110 cam.
>>I also put a full flow oil system with schadek, 30 mm hd pump with
>>external cooler, and filter. I am using Fram HP1 oil filter as per
>>schadek's recommendations.
>>I am using the stock oil pressure bypass valves and springs, that came
>>with the dual relief case.
>>I did drill and tap the case, so oil exits at pump cover, runs to
>>filter, up through cooler, and then back into block in the upper left
>>corner of block.
>>For some reason I keep blowing the seal on my filter.
>>As near as I can tell it is running 45 to 55 psi, and will surge to
>>65, and up to 80 at 5000 rpms. I am running 20w 50 oil. The pressure
>>will drop to 20 psi at idle.
>>Is there a way to adjust the bypass valves down, so that the system
>>does not build so much pressure?
>>If engine is cold, I can blow seal with by reving the engine once, to
>>1400 to 2000 rpms.
>>
>
>
> before you go through all the other things spoken of, get a good
> filter....the fram hp1 has had many many folks report blowing the seal
> out...your pressure isn't excessive.....
>
> (just for info, the oil pressure relief/regulator piston and spring is the
> front(front is front) piston in a dual relief case)


30mm pump is the main culprit. Nothing in the engine configuration
warranting one. 20W50 oil. YES HE HAS TOO MUCH PRESSURE, that pump is
way overkill and will actually make the engine overheat. (Oil is
bypassing the cooler because the engine thinks it's cold)

Switch to an aluminum bodied 26mm Schadek pump and sell that 30mm one or
use as paperweight.

Break the engine in with 10W30 or 10W40, use 20W50 only in very high
temperatures and worn engines.

You do not need ANY more oil pressure than (good condition) stock
pressure, anything above that is just going to cause more problems than
what it might fix.

Jan

Too Much Oil Pressure
 

>
> before you go through all the other things spoken of, get a good
> filter....the fram hp1 has had many many folks report blowing the seal
> out...your pressure isn't excessive.....
>
> (just for info, the oil pressure relief/regulator piston and spring is the
> front(front is front) piston in a dual relief case)

The ford motorcraft equivalent of the PH8A always worked well for me
when I ran an external filter. Don't recall the part number off the
top of my head unfortunately. I took the center threaded part of the
filter adapter to autozone and start checking filters to find one that
would thread on and matched the seal diameter of the fram filter.

Chris

Too Much Oil Pressure
 

"Jan" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> 30mm pump is the main culprit. Nothing in the engine configuration
> warranting one. 20W50 oil. YES HE HAS TOO MUCH PRESSURE, that pump is way
> overkill and will actually make the engine overheat. (Oil is bypassing the
> cooler because the engine thinks it's cold)
>
> Switch to an aluminum bodied 26mm Schadek pump and sell that 30mm one or
> use as paperweight.
>
> Break the engine in with 10W30 or 10W40, use 20W50 only in very high
> temperatures and worn engines.
>
> You do not need ANY more oil pressure than (good condition) stock
> pressure, anything above that is just going to cause more problems than
> what it might fix.
>

well **** me running backwards....if he is running TOO MUCH PRESSURE, then
my 26mm pump is "overkill" too...i have those same pressures... and this is
with 10w40 oil.... and the kicker? nice cool oil temps, no ****ing blown
filter gaskets(i don't use fram) and i can't be told i'm wrong by jan,
because its 26mm... my oil pressure guage pegs when cold at a steady 1800
rpms(no choke, gotta high idle it myself)...
from the line "As near as I can tell it is running 45 to 55 psi, and will
surge to
>>65, and up to 80 at 5000 rpms. I am running 20w 50 oil." his pressure
>>isn't excessive.... his filter choice, however, is questionable...(and ftr
>>at those types of pressures in 95F temps i can cruise the interstate for
>>hours at 70-75mph and never go over 220F at the sump...i'm thinking my oil
>>cooler isn't being bypassed as everyone is QUICK to state(regurgitate)...

Too Much Oil Pressure
 

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> >
>> before you go through all the other things spoken of, get a good
>> filter....the fram hp1 has had many many folks report blowing the seal
>> out...your pressure isn't excessive.....
>>
>> (just for info, the oil pressure relief/regulator piston and spring is
>> the
>> front(front is front) piston in a dual relief case)
>
> The ford motorcraft equivalent of the PH8A always worked well for me
> when I ran an external filter. Don't recall the part number off the
> top of my head unfortunately. I took the center threaded part of the
> filter adapter to autozone and start checking filters to find one that
> would thread on and matched the seal diameter of the fram filter.
>
> Chris
>

i run a purolater... the number is 3001